Muc-Off Dry Lube 120ml chain oil (Packaging may vary)

Product Information

The type of lube you choose to use comes down to several factors involving where and when you ride. If you are fastidious about cleaning your bike regularly, and often ride in inclement conditions, then wet lube is the right choice for you. Despite the relatively high viscosity, I was stunned by just how thoroughly it had penetrated the chain, and other metal-on-metal surfaces. Bearing in mind, I'd just come from Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube, friction was lower than the proverbial snake's testicles. ZFC, however, is adamant this isn’t optimum and that the benefits of waxed-based lubricants, and of immersive waxing in particular, far outstrip the negatives even for commuters. ZFC says immersive waxing and re-waxing at 300km intervals, or after every wet ride, can extend a chain’s lifespan to around 15,000km – about three times as long as what is typically achieved with standard drip lubes. This also helps massively extend the lifespan of the other, more expensive drivetrain components such as cassettes and chainrings. If that’s to be believed, you could also make an argument that you’re spending your money mostly on carrier fluid that’s designed to disappear into thin air.

We hope you found this guide helpful, feel free to get in touch on our live chat if you have any questions on the best lube for your bike! The downside of wet lubes? These same properties also make it a magnet for dirt and grime (especially if applied excessively), and the extra viscosity also means lower outright efficiency compared to thinner lubes, due to the added viscous friction. If you need to clean your bike or your chain after a ride, you should end up by drying the chain and reapplying lube, to prevent your chain from rusting. Likewise a ride in wet conditions will usually require a reapplication to keep your chain sparkly. Soggy, salty November outings have made negligible impression upon these characteristics and I've been astounded by how clean my Univega's drivetrain remains despite perpetual exposure to waterlogged, silty lanes with occasional cross country short cuts thrown in for good measure. Its qualities were less obvious on my cross inspired fixer given the inherently simple transmission, but tending to rear wheel punctures has been a notably cleaner business. When conditions are reasonably dry then it lasts very well and I have used it without issue on road, gravel and mountain bike drivetrains, but I confess that my chains do get very regularly cleaned. If you prefer to layer on lube after lube without recourse to a brush and cleaner, then perhaps look elsewhere.According to ZFC, the difference between a good and bad lubricant can comfortably amount to five to ten watts at a 250-watt load. These losses increase in magnitude as the load increases, too. It’s fair to say not everyone will have the inclination or patience for it though. After all, outright efficiency and cleanliness almost certainly matter less to most commuters than the ability for your bike to last a couple of weeks in all weathers without cleaning it. Tell us what the product is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about it?

Doing so is a challenge, though. When you ride in wet or dirty conditions, your front wheel sprays huge amounts of contaminants onto your chain (although good mudguards can mitigate the effects to a degree). From there, the only way to reset the balance is to clean your drivetrain thoroughly. Apply a moderate amount of Bio Dry Chain Lube to the inside chain link while spinning pedals in a reverse motion Drivetrain efficiency describes how much of the energy (usually described as ‘power’ because it can be measured in watts) you put through the pedals reaches the rear wheel, to drive you and the bike forward. However, even a light rain shower will wash dry lube off the chain and it is less durable; an 80-mile ride in dry conditions can see lubrication drastically reduced.

In an ideal world, yes, every time. However we understand this is not always possible, for example on a really long ride I carry a small bottle to top up my chain lube and keep everything running smooth and quietly! You also need to leave enough time before you ride for the wax to completely dry and harden on the chain (overnight, ideally). If you ride in wet conditions the chain will also need to be cleaned, dried and lubricated soon afterwards to prevent corrosion. Immersive waxing Conventional wisdom has it that dry lubes are for fine, dry conditions. Fair enough, but this is Britain and we don't have a balmy Californian climate, we have weather in all its moist and infinite variety and any lube is going to have to earn its keep. On review, we found that our chain remained rust-free after our 'garden hose test' that we used to replicate wet weather. A ride in the rain followed and the chain again showed no signs of rust or stiff links. We also liked that, unlike some wet lubes, Green Oil didn't attract too much dirt and grime that can really wear the drivetrain. Simon Nash of Green Oil, which makes environmentally friendly lubes, explains: “Wet lube was the original lubricant of choice. Early brands used something like car engine oil. Its consistency trumped basic spray lubricants that were primarily designed to displace water.

Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains. Despite the seemingly endless differences, chain lube can be broken down into just two simple categories: wet and dry. How often do I need to apply chain lube?There are many different types of bicycle-specific lubes, including wet lubes, dry lubes, ceramic lubes and wax lubes. Each has its own pros and cons, and intended use, which we’ll come on to. You’ll need to clean your drivetrain regularly, possibly even after every ride if you want the maximum benefit and to maintain peak performance and optimise drivetrain life. Once a wet lube becomes contaminated it can begin to cause drivetrain wear.

Wet lubes are used in all weather conditions but really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter as they are water resistant so won’t get washed off riding through puddles or in a rainstorm.All of the chain lubes featured have been tested in the real world. In general this means that the reviewers have used the products across a range of conditions to assess their performance, taking into consideration the different demands placed on wet and dry lubes as well as wax. We take note of a range of factors from ease of use to longevity. You will see that we also sell C3 versions of our wet and dry lubes. The C3 stands for ceramic as these lubes contain nano ceramic particles and synthetic polymers that help improve both performance and longevity meaning your chain is lubricated better for longer. Great for both road bikes and mountain bikes! Apply a moderate amount of Bio Dry Chain Lube to the inside chain link while spinning pedals in a reverse motion. Dry lubes, so-called because they’re designed for riding in dry conditions, are often made up of around 10 per cent lubricant – synthetic oils and additives – and 90 per cent carrier fluid.